Tag: Casco Bay

The Final Leg to Our Home Port of Southwest Harbor

Thursday, July 5 – Monday, July 9, 2018 

“This day brings. . . ” is how Captain Rodman Swift began his daily entries in the diaries we found in the Martha’s Vineyard Museum archives, so THIS day brought hazy skies and 70’s as we moved east out of Casco Bay. 

Workboat in Casco Bay

Our passage moved through Chandler’s Cove, around Hope Island, across Luckse and Broad Sounds, past Cape Small, and south of Sequin Island towards Linekin Neck.  Early on we snagged some potwarp, but it cleared itself.  More worrisome was we again experienced a “slowdown” of power with no indication of fuel clogs, etc.  We stop and start up again, and off we go with no other problem.  Hmmmm. 

Our first stop was at Christmas Cove, where we met Thelma and Wilson of s/v CHRISTINA, who we first met and enjoyed hanging out with at the WoodenBoat Show.  They had stopped in for a nap before moving on — something we may end up doing on occasion.

We were assigned mooring #3 by Coveside Marina, but that night we gently bumped transoms with the sailboat next to us as both vessels were “sailing” in the wind and current.  Hugh shortened the mooring line and we added fenders.  No more bumping, but we requested a move to #1 the next morning.  That night’s rain eventually cleared out as the wind shifted to the NW — great for drying out; enjoying a walk to the Post Office (to mail a check to Crossroads Coffeebeans), walking to “the gut” and its nifty bridge; eating ice cream; and better sleeping that night.

The lift bridge at “the gut”

By Saturday morning, the wind shifted to the SW.  It was crisp and clear: Glorious!  We left Christmas Cove at 7 and made our way through the Thread of Life, past Pemaquid Point,  below Western Egg Rock, followed the marks past Port Clyde and Mosquito Island, and tucked into Tenants Harbor by 10:15. 

Southern Island at the entrance to Tenants Harbor

We picked up a Tenants Harbor Boat Yard mooring (first come, first serve — that’s the advantage of getting an early start and arriving early at our destination).  After a short nap, it was time to explore the village and enjoy a lobster roll and warm blueberry pie a la mode on the deck overlooking the harbor at Luke’s.

Tenants Harbor Boat Yard. DREADNOUGHT is center left

THBY was established in 1605 (before Jamestown, VA!), and is currently  owned by Jamie Wyeth.  His cruiser, DREADNOUGHT, black with bright trim (very cool!) was tied at the dock.  Wyeth is based on Monhegan and also lives on Southern Island at the mouth of Tenants Harbor.

At one point that evening a man rowed up for a chat about wooden boats and rowing peapods vs. towing dories.  He told us how much he enjoyed watching KATIE MACK come around Southern Island and into the harbor.  Turns out this was Jamie Wyeth himself!

Sunday, and it was another early start after a quick stop at the dock to walk Annie.  We transited the Mussel Ridge Channel in no time, compared to 2014’s sail into the wind aboard RESOLUTE.  We cruised through the Fox Island Thorofare where we saw a lovely double-ended ketch, black hulled EVELYN in North Haven. 

Lots of Herreshoff 12’s, but surprisingly only one North Haven Dinghy!  We spied our first bald eagles over North Haven.  Out in East Penobscot Bay the winds were light and breezy — where were all the sailboats?  Once we neared Eggemoggin Reach, we finally saw sailboats.  Lots of sailboats, and some especially lovely wooden ones, including a sweet little double-ended gaff-rigged schooner AEGUS (ARGUS?). 

Cruising down the Eggemoggin Reach towards the Deer Isle Bridge

The wind picked up as Windy predicted, and by 1;15 we picked up a WoodenBoat mooring in Brooklin.  After a nap, we walked around the WoodenBoat School.  Bob and Mary of s/v DOG STAR sent us photos and a video of us returning on SAMARIA to KATIE MACK.  Early dinner and bed.

The next morning, we again walked around WoodenBoat and stopped into the store to pick up a few  WB T-shirts. 

Bass Harbor Head Light as we crossed the bar

We departed Brooklin, entered Jericho Bay, transited Casco Passage and Blue Hill Bay, crossed the bar at Bass Harbor Head, and rounded our way into the Western Way and home to Southwest Harbor!  We topped up water and fuel at Hinckley’s and pumped out at Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina and finally picked up our mooring off the farmhouse dock at 12:20.  Home again, home again, jiggety jig!

The “circus elephant” hills of Mount Desert Island

Homeward Bound

Sunday, July 1 –  Wednesday, July 4, 2018 

At 6:30, under hazy skies and with flat seas, we departed Vineyard Haven.  Happily, we made it through Woods Hole and across Buzzards Bay with the current. 

The railroad bridge over the Cape Cod Canal was down, waiting
for the garbage/commuter train

When we  arrived at the Cape Cod Canal, the railroad bridge was down, allowing only seven feet of clearance, so we waited for the train to pass before we proceeded through the Canal. 

Outer harbor, Cohasset

This being just ahead of the 4th of July, there were no moorings available in Plymouth or Scituate, so we called ahead to Laurie, the Harbormaster of Cohasset.  Thankfully, she had one heavy mooring available ($35).  This gem of a harbor was hardly recognizable on a blisteringly hot Sunday in July, but the water was perfect for a swim off the platform! 

At one point a fellow kayaked over — he’d been reading his WoodenBoat Magazine on his porch, looked up to see KATIE MACK coming into the tiny harbor, looked back down at the article he was reading, and realized he had to come say hi!  We need to keep an eye out for the MARY CURTIS, a black-hulled old wooden fishing vessel out of Boston as they, too, were headed to Maine.  Laurie the harbormaster was kind enough to offer of the use of her truck if we needed to drive into town for any provisions.  No need as we were well stocked, but wow, that’s above and beyond.  KATIE MACK is proving to be quite the skid-greaser when it comes to meeting people and hearing stories of old wooden boats.

Monday dawned humid with temps climbing to the 80’s.  We left Cohasset at 9 and cruised across Massachusetts Bay, arriving at Marblehead just before noon.  We picked up the same EYC mooring, took a nap, and then headed over to town for a few provisions.  We met Tad and Liz for a delicious dinner at Maddie’s Sail Loft, and reminisced about where we were exactly 40 years ago: on Nantucket at Tad’s mom’s house.  Hugh and I met that fateful July day, and it’s been quite an adventure since!

Red sky at morning . . . .

We awoke to a red sky, so decided to get going early.  Dropped the mooring at 6:20, and after topping off water and walking Annie, we headed into 1-2 foot seas.  Once we passed Cape Ann and the Thacher Island lights, we enjoyed an easier ride with the swell.  We kept an eye on the thunderheads well to the west, over land.  At one point, we had radio contact with m/v TANGO, requesting they pass aft of us on their way to Isles of Shoals.  We also asked if we showed up on their radar — yes, we did.  Good to know! 

The 3rd was a loooong day, 8 1/2 hours, and it’s a good thing the thunderstorms never came close as there were no moorings available between Marblehead and Biddeford Pool, due to  4th of July celebrations. We were relieved  to pick up one of the Biddeford Yacht Club moorings ($35/night) at Biddeford Pool.  I called our friend, Leslie, who has a summer cottage just up the street from the little market.  Right after our relaunch in Yarmouth last fall, Leslie came aboard for a tour; she will be forever and fondly known as “Oh, hell no!”  

We had a nice walk with Annie down along the beach, and Leslie told us more about the classic wood cruiser that is free to the buyer of a lovely cottage across the inlet from the yacht club.  All yours for only 5 million! 

We slept in on the 4th, and didn’t get moving until just after 11, since it was only a short hop to Casco Bay.  Wow, did it feel good to be back in familiar waters!  As we crossed Casco Bay, we watched the Cat coming in from Nova Scotia.

We met our friend, Ginny, and her dog Copper, at Handy’s in Falmouth, where we also topped up fuel and water, and pumped out the head.  As we are moving, we try not to allow the tanks to fall much below half, and we watch the head closely as it approaches 3/4.  Next, we headed over to the Maine Yacht Center where Skip and Julie keep their JULIP. 

We were given the premiere dock space ($120) for watching Portland’s fireworks over the East End beach on the aft deck with the Skip and Julie, and more longtime friends, Steve and AnnMarie.  Annie was terrified of all the flashbangs, so we’ll never do that again!  We managed to keep her from jumping off the boat, and she quickly settled once the booming stopped.